There’s a well-dressed elephant in the room for any person of color attending Fashion Week. No matter how beautiful the models or exquisite the clothes, the question remains: Are Black people being represented in these collections? Many times, that answer is negative.

Purveyors of style are hard-pressed to see a model of color grace the catwalk. It’s even less likely that the designs presented are the brainchild of Black artisans. Among the rows of spectators privileged enough to view a collection at its debut, it’s a rarity to see a group of black or brown faces. Much has been said about the whitewash at Fashion Week, but years later, progress remains elusive.

New York Fashion Week sets the tone for the upcoming shopping season. Editors and buyers descend on Lincoln Center in their best-dressed to discover new collections and dictate which looks end up in magazines, advertisements and ultimately, in the marketplace. Since women of color make up a sizable and dedicated consumer base, it’s crucial that brown and black faces are present from the design room to the department store. But it’s often the case that people of color are underrepresented and ignored.

There are luminaries whose life’s work has helped expand the African-American presence in fashion. Bethann Hardison is one such agent of change. She single-handedly embraces models of color, consults with designers and invests in media that celebrates Black talent.

Designers like Tracy Reese, Stephen Burrows, Lois Samuels, LaQuan Smith, Carly Cushnie of Cushnie et Ochs and Edwing D’Angelo make up a distinguished few that have the resources necessary to present at New York Fashion Week.

Of the myriad of journalists that trickle in and out of Lincoln Center, there are a handful of exceptional editors–Essence Magazine‘s Constance White, Teen Vogue‘s Shiona Turini, The New York Times‘ Simone Oliver, W Magazine‘s Edward Enninful, Michaela Angela Davis, Agnes Cammock and The Daily Beast‘s Robin Givhan–that wield extraordinary power in giving media exposure to Black models and designers.Blogging, which is a rising phenomenon in the fashion industry, has opened doors for Black faces like LoveBrownSugar‘s Christina Brown, Glamazonsblog‘s Andrea Arterbery and Afrobella‘s Patrice Yursik. However, there are many editors and bloggers who cite racism as the reason they’re shut out of shows and denied invitations. The fashion community does not see the value in a niche, race-specific audience, so mainstream bloggers and publications get priority.

While these industry heavyweights help diversify the white-dominated fashion landscape, Harlem’s Fashion Row stands out as an isolated beacon of Black influence. Founded by Brandice Henderson, HFR offers a memorable presentation of regalia created by Black designers and worn by Black models at the close of New York Fashion Week. Last year’s Harlem’s Fashion Row honored Essence Magazine‘s Emil Wilbekin and accomplished stylist June Ambrose, while introducing designs by talented artists like Kellia Kebero.

It is a testament to the unbridled potential of Blacks in fashion, still untapped by the fashion industry at large.–Jessica Andrews

The scarf brings the attractive factor down a few notches, according to some women. “I feel like Aunt Jemima,” a woman who spoke on condition of anonymity revealed. “A scarf just doesn’t look sexy,” she added.

Admittedly after a romantic night with a new boo when I’m feeling especially alluring, the last thing I want to do is grab a brush, wrap my hair and put on my leopard print scarf. Even if it means I have to sacrifice my new hairstyle in the process.

But what’s behind our aversion to wearing a scarf around a new guy? While some think it’s simply unattractive, others want to appear “perfect” and don’t want their man to see me them in their maintenance state. But I wonder, is it because these women are embarrassed that they have to wear a scarf in the first place?

A good friend of mine, who has straight hair on account of her mixed ethnicity, counts the fact that “she doesn’t have to wear a scarf,” as a source of pride. Her hair apparently isn’t damaged by cotton pillowcases and has the same look the next morning no matter how she sleeps. Scarves, she explained, are generally regarded as a need for “black hair.” And tying up your hair is evidence that you don’t fit the European standard of beauty so many of our men and women still readily embrace.

When addressing his divorce from Malinda Williams, Mekhi Phifer brought up the dreaded scarf as one of the reasons he became disenchanted with her. He said something to the effect that he doesn’t want to come home to his wife in a scarf and sweats.

While I acknowledge his point about keeping up appearances (to an extent), it bothered me that he spoke about her scarf with such disgust. They were married and Malinda is undoubtedly a gorgeous woman but to Mekhi, her scarf made her undesirable—and many women fear their men will feel the same way.

What’s the big deal about wearing a scarf around your boo? Have you ever forgone tying your hair at night in the presence of a man? Why? Do men look down on the act of tying up the hair while desiring those who don’t have to?

-Jessica C. Andrews

Most women who transition from relaxed to natural hair haven’t dealt with their unaltered texture since childhood, thus having to learn how to manage their hair from scratch. The task can be daunting especially when one considers the myriad of products available and the lack of adequate natural hair salons. Natural hair bloggers and experts like Afrobella, Curly Nikki and Love Brown Sugar are a great resource but even with instruction, you are bound to make a few mistakes on your journey. We’ve rounded up the top five faux paux that naturals make in caring for their hair and what you can do to avoid them.

Click through to read all 5, Vixens!

1. Avoiding a trim.

When growing out your hair from a big chop, trimming is essential. It will not only strengthen your hair by getting rid of dead ends, it will actually help it grow faster. Because you can’t see split ends as easily on natural kinky/curly hair than straight hair, it’s tempting to go months without cutting off your ends. Trust us, you’re only doing yourself a disservice. Get to trimming!

2. Not detangling.

I’ll just come out and say it: detangling sucks. But it is a necessary evil. I’ve seen too many women with glorious afros with hair slowly dreading in the middle to not suffer through a much-needed detangling session. Wide-tooth combs and detangling conditioners like Kinky Curly’s Knot Today will be your best friends.

More Sally Beauty…

3. Choosing the wrong products.

Not every natural hair product marketed with a beautiful girl with a kinky fro is worth picking up. Be sure to do an ingredient check for every beauty buy you pick up and be sure to avoid products with alcohol which is drying to the hair. A good rule of thumb is to pass any natural hair product with ingredients you can’t pronounce.

4. Washing your hair too often.

Natural hair is characteristically dry so try to avoid washing your hair too often and stripping it of the moisture it craves. Co-washes (washes with conditioner) are ideal as the lather in shampoo is damaging to your hair but even those need a weekly limit.

5. Using too much heat.

As your hair grows out, it will be tempting to try new styles which may require heat. It’s smart to avoid putting heat on your natural hair as much as possible as heat damage can weaken your hair and alter your texture permanently. Opt for styles like twist outs, braid outs and Bantu knot outs that don’t require it. Curlformers are also a brilliant tool you can use if you desire a head full of curls. You can also adopt protective styles like a top knot (above) that don’t require heat.

More Hair Flair…

What are some other common natural hair mistakes? How do you avoid them, Vixens?

Since I made the decision to go natural a year ago, I’ve fielded as many questions about growing hair as styling it. While long hair is desired by many women no matter their texture, for naturals, who have big chopped, it’s a bit more complicated. You literally have to grow your hair back from scratch all while getting to know your new texture and learning how to style and manage it. See? No easy feat.

Here are the tips I’ve embraced to grow out my natural hair:

1. Protective Styles

Your hair typically grows a quarter to a half inch per month. The problem? It can break off as much if not more than it grows causing a heap of frustration when you see no progress at all. In addition to practicing good hair habits including wearing a satin bonnet or sleeping on a satin pillow (cotton is not your friend) and staying away from drying ingredients like alcohol, find a style where your ends are covered or “protected.” Protective styles like a bun, two strand twists, braids, weaves and wigs (with proper haircare underneath) are great options that will help increase hair retention.

2. Vitamins

Use caution (aka consult a doctor) but there are several vitamins out there that can help you with your journey to grow out your hair. Omega 3 supplements and Vitamin D are hailed as excellent for growing out your mane.

3. Natural Oils

There are plenty of products on the market that promise to grow your strands but I’ve found natural oils are the very best. Olive oil, carrot oil, Jojoba oil and Jamaican Black Castor oil are exceptional.

4. Get Your Ends Trimmed

For some reason, many women are afraid to trim their ends. Trust me on this: split ends are your worst enemy. They don’t stop hair growth but they increase breakage which obviously prevents hair retention and leads to damage.

5. Diet

What you put into your body shows in your hair! In addition to staying hydrated (cue Sh*t Natural Girls Say), choose a diet rich in iron, protein, vitamin B and omega-3 fatty acids.

What tips do you use to achieve long, healthy hair, Vixen?

-Jessica C. Andrews

Source

The turban has been around for ages. Screen sirens from the ‘40s and ‘50s regularly drew inspiration from the Middle East, wrapping their heads with colorful fabric. The head wraps saw a revival in the ’70s with more of a hippie-inspired vibe, and these days we’ve seen turbans grace the Spring/Summer 2011 runways of designers like Jason Wu, Milly and Issa.

We’ve seen the headpiece adorn the heads of celebs and fashion icons from Zoe Kravitz to Carrie Bradshaw, Shala Monroque to June Ambrose. It’s been turned into everything from a statement-making accessory to a wardrobe staple.

Turbans can be fun, elegant and chic. Plus, they’re a great way to cover a bad hair day.

But a turban can go wrong really easily.

For instance, your headwear should never compete with the rest of your ensemble. It’s a statement piece, so you should let it shine. The fabric, color and print of your turban are key. Anything too shiny, too bright or too busy can translate easily to “too much.” Finally, wrapping and securing your turban in a sleek, effortless way is a must if you don’t want to look sloppy.

What we haven’t seen yet, however, is many people working the turban on the street.

Has the trend really caught on or are you simply not buying all the hype?

Read any Vixen article about natural or relaxed hair and you’ll find a flood of comments from readers debating about which style is better. Remarks often veer on the argumentative side with naturals and relaxed pitted against one other.

The comments can get ugly. Claims that natural hair is unattractive and that women with relaxed hair want to look white are hurtful and antagonistic. When did our hairstyle choices make us enemies?

When the natural vs. relaxed tension materializes in our personal lives, the divide is felt even deeper. Hair is a bonding experience for many women who run style ideas by each other, share product recommendations and even coordinate salon visits. So what happens when you decide to go natural and your best friend is relaxed?

Though my best friend didn’t initially understand why I went natural, we haven’t had one argument or even a negative comment about my transition. Instead of attacking each other because of our differences, we chose to reach a place of mutual respect and understanding.

Here are three things I learned in the process that can help us all celebrate our individual hairstyle choices while still loving and embracing those who rock their hair differently:

1. Know that it’s a personal choice.

Women go natural or choose to relax their hair for various reasons which are ultimately personal. While one woman may find the natural hair journey liberating and self-affirming, another’s motivation might be purely aesthetic. There are women who relax their hair to fit the mainstream standard of beauty; others simply because it’s easier to manage. Sweeping generalizations, like the idea that all naturals embrace being black and women with relaxers don’t, are not only disrespectful, they’re inaccurate. It’s important to own your choices and experiences without projecting them on others.

2. Educate yourself.

Few things insult naturals more than ignorant comments regarding the look, texture and style of their hair. Comments that equate all natural hairstyles to a “nappy ‘fro” are insulting and untrue; not every natural wears their hair in the same style and some even regularly straighten their hair. Likewise, the myth that natural hair is unkempt and undone is highly offensive; it takes a lot of work, patience, time and money to achieve and maintain natural styles. Before making incendiary comments about natural haircare like Method Man for example, educate yourself about it.

3. Realize it’s just hair.

As black women, we are the target of too many attacks against us by the mainstream, Psychology Today studies included, to turn on each other over a hairstyle. At the end of the day, our similarities as women of color strongly outweigh the differences surrounding how we style our tresses.

Have you ever experienced tension between women with natural and relaxed hair? How do you deal with it?

-Jessica C. Andrews

It’s no secret: Video modeling is looked down upon in hip-hop. From the lovely lady who let Nelly swipe a credit card down her butt cheeks to the myriad of half-dressed women who jiggle what their mama gave them for a camera while surrounded by fully-clothed men, video models are no trophy—according to most onlookers. There’s a nasty stigma that comes along with an appearance in a music video, labeling models as loose and undeserving of respect for willingly allowing themselves to be objectified for a couple of coins.

And sometimes, there’s not even money involved. Erica revealed yesterday that her beef is that many of these women will take a video gig for $50 or less, making the business of video modeling obsolete. Even worse, the sex-soaked videos are often accompanied by sex scandals fueled by rumors of hookups between rappers and video models on and off set. To be sure, there are models like Amber Rose (who met Kanye West on the set of his never-seen ‘Robocop’ video) and Melyssa Ford who have been able to nab acting jobs and fame outside of the work they’ve done in music videos alone. But each of them struggle to overcome the stigma of video modeling (and stripping, in Amber’s case) and the public’s disapproving gaze.

Why are more mainstream and high-fashion models, who Erica links herself with, able to avoid these kind of negative stereotypes? There are plenty of editorials that supermodels are ‘overtly sexy’ in; we’ve seen models in suggestive poses and revealing clothing to sell everything from lingerie to a pair of jeans. And nude or topless shoots for high-fashion models are par for the course. There’s also romance. There are more models married, engaged or dating celebrity athletes/musicians than I can count on two hands. And there’s scandal, too. Plenty of famous, well-regarded photographers have been rumored to engage in sexual acts with their model subjects. Yet supermodels, who engage in risque shoots and/or behavior, don’t seem to elicit a lack of respect from the public the way video models do.

Erica seemed hell-bent on distinguishing her type of ‘modeling’ from Kimbella’s to put herself on a higher level. But why do we put mainstream models on a different level than video models in the first place? Can’t they all get respect?

We’ve all witnessed tragic, visible “tracks on tracks on tracks” and weave that just doesn’t blend. Those are deplorable and punishable crimes against humanity, but misconceptions that weave wearers are bald or scared to wear their own hair are just ridiculous. I have a full head of long hair that I love to rock, but I also enjoy having the option of throwing in weave on a whim.

Here are two more facts that may surprise you: White women wear weave too (pause for dramatic effect)! I hope you didn’t think Kim Kardashian’s flowing raven locks are just magically long and full. She gets pieces added. Secondly, not all weave wearers want a long, relaxed, Barbie-doll look either. Weave comes in a variety of textures, like kinky and curly, which means the girl you’ve been admiring with a full, natural ‘fro might be rocking a weave too. Surprise!

The reality is women of all races with all different hair textures love weaves because, well, weave changes things. How, you ask? Let us count the ways.

- Allows Experimentation
With just a little needle and thread, you can try any style your heart desires without committing or damaging your real hair. Want to try a short, cropped cut? Blonde streaks? Try it with a weave. And if you don’t like it, you can take it right out. Genius.

- Protects Your Real Hair
If you took out your weave to discover locks as long as Rapunzel’s, you’re not alone. By keeping your hair braided (not so tightly) in cornrows under sew-in weaves, you give it a rest from the daily tugging and heat applications which cause breakage.

- Helps You Enjoy Your Vacation
Take it from Beyoncé. There’s nothing like rocking a wet and wavy weave when yacht chilling en route to a tropical island alongside your man. The weave gives you the freedom to swim, dance and, err… perform other physical activities (wink!) without damaging your style.

- Gives You Swag
When it comes to hairstyles, most women I know get bored easily. The ability to change up your style and hit the streets with a glamorous brand new look gives you confidence like no other. Have you ever seen a girl out on the town on Saturday night rocking a fresh weave and feeling herself? Well, now you know why.

What do YOU love about weave?

June Ambrose is one of the most celebrated figures in contemporary black fashion. She is our stylist du jour, thrilling us with her imaginative outfits and adventurous Twitter tales of shopping, socializing and doting after her adorable two children.

From the front row at New York Fashion Week to the red carpet at every star-studded event, June has shown every fashion hopeful how to evolve from a celebrity stylist to a household name by creating a sunglasses line, turban collection and VH1 Reality TV show to boot. But for all her fame and fortune, June Ambrose’s most treasured contribution has always been in her own fearless, exhilarating approach to style.

Here are five things June Ambrose has taught us that we can use to transform our own closets…

1. Experiment with fashion.
From head-to-toe pink suits to bold purple, orange and blue color-blocking, June’s outfits are the daring fashion statements we always wanted to make but were too timid to. She rocks styles we’d never dream of wearing in public—much less a red carpet—with the kind of confidence and attitude that makes it seem effortless. And we love her for it.

2. Make a look your signature.
For all the trends that come and go, every woman worth her while has lasting signature pieces that embody her unique style. The turban, the Birkin bag and oversized shades have become synonymous with June’s glamorous sartorial sense. She’s taught us to identify that one fashion item you love, whether it’s a chic pair of shoes or a resplendent pair of drop earrings, and own it.

3. Always go for statement accessories.
Speaking of accessories, June knows how to elevate a stylish outfit with jaw-dropping accoutrements. She’s wowed us with shoes like DSquared2′s skeleton pumps and Miu Miu’s studded sandals paired artfully with menswear-inspired suits and vibrant separates. The beauty is in the details and June turns each outfit into an awe-inspiring work of art.

4. Flatter your figure.
For all the outfits we’ve seen June in—white cocktail dresses, structured suits, billowing maxi skirts—we’ve never seen her step out in a look that didn’t compliment her shape. June’s got figure flattery down to a science with silhouettes that elongate her frame and bring attention to the physical features she loves most like her small waist and endlessly long legs. Take note.

5. You define what’s stylish.
At a time where hip hop was never viewed as fashion-forward, June Ambrose made the clothing industry take rap music seriously. An arbiter of style, June almost single-handedly gave rap a presence in the fashion landscape with her groundbreaking efforts pinning wardrobes for stars like Diddy, Mary J. Blige, Jay-Z and countless others. The fact that hip hop and fashion are now inextricably linked is a testament to June’s trailblazing work.

What has June Ambrose’s career and style taught you?